Ajloun Castle and Forest: North Jordan's Hidden Gem
Ajloun Castle (Qal'at al-Rabad)
Built in 1184 by Izz al-Din Usama ibn Munqidh, a nephew of Saladin, Ajloun Castle was constructed to counter Crusader expansion from the east and to protect the iron mines of the region. It is one of the finest examples of Islamic military architecture in the Levant — a seven-towered fortress with a dry moat, vaulted interior halls and arrow slits oriented to the approaches from the east.
The castle perches at 1,250 metres on a hilltop with 360-degree views over the Jordan Valley and into the West Bank. On clear days the spires of Jerusalem are visible on the horizon. Unlike Petra or Jerash, Ajloun rarely has significant crowds — you can have the castle largely to yourself on a weekday morning.
Ajloun Forest Reserve
Immediately surrounding the castle town is the Ajloun Forest Reserve, managed by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature. This is one of the few remaining areas of the ancient oak, carob, strawberry tree and wild pistachio woodland that once covered much of the Levantine highlands.
The reserve has two trail options: the Roe Deer Trail (an 8 km circuit taking 2–3 hours through dense woodland, passing natural springs and viewpoints) and the Soap House Trail (a 4 km shorter loop). The trails are moderate and well-marked. Red-coloured Mediterranean squirrels, rare roe deer, stone martens and over 120 bird species inhabit the reserve.
Where to stay and what to eat
The RSCN operates a set of woodland chalets within the reserve that are excellent — private wooden cabins, forest views, campfire evenings and meals cooked by the local cooperative. They are simple, thoughtfully designed and in the right setting for a genuine immersion in north Jordan's forests.
The town of Ajloun itself has several restaurants near the castle serving local Jordanian food. The area is known for its olives, olive oil and honey — look for locally produced products at small shops near the town center.
Getting there and combining with Jerash
Ajloun is 75 km north of Amman — about 90 minutes by car. The obvious pairing is with Jerash, just 23 km away (30 minutes by road). A morning in Jerash's Roman ruins followed by an afternoon at Ajloun Castle, then an overnight in the woodland chalets, is one of north Jordan's finest itineraries.
The drive between Ajloun and Jerash passes through the market town of Ajloun, where the weekly souk and local olive presses are worth a stop if you visit on the right day. Al Maqsad provides private transfers for all north Jordan circuits.